Contemplations from a National Park Lodge

Clare here. It’s been a while since we’ve posted, but Jesus we’ve done a lot of stuff. Mostly under the guise of chasing shade. The West may have no humidity, but you’re a mile/mile-and-a-half closer to the sun, which makes up the difference… unless you have shade. 

If you don’t have shade, you are no man.

That again, there is something to be said for the East Coast. Nosebleeds are only in the winter, moisturizer isn’t needed all that much, fewer hippies, wood doesn’t burn in .001 seconds, and water doesn’t cost $100,000/gallon. But other than that, dude, I don’t know…

Rest of Moab

All that said, we had a sweet suite at the Gonzo Inn in Moab, plus a pool, which was great for siesta. Since it got above 100°F during the day, we’d go out early in the morning (up at 6:30 even though dawn was 5:30) and get out. Back after lunch, then out again for dinner once the sun headed down.

The next day we went rafting on the Colorado, which was very zen. The rapids were mostly Class -1, so we could get out of the boat and just float down the river, pee if need be, knowing that this 20-ft wide stream is the water supply for all of southern California, Nevada, and I believe Arizona. OOPS! But seriously, good GOD, that is THEIR ENTIRE WATER SUPPLY.

Onward to Bryce

The next day was a 5+ hour drive to Bryce Canyon… basically 2-lane roads across southern Utah and the most beautiful and UNGODLY frightening road… UT12 between Boulder and Escalante is basically a ridge atop a mountain. For about ½ mile, sheer cliffs on either side – of course no guardrail and no place to pull off. Also the obligatory stop at a very cool pulloff where you can see miles in the distance; a ton of petrified sand dunes. Lily was NOT impressed. So, back in the car to the DVD player.

Once again, Capitol Reef NP gets short shrift… time enough to get a WPA retro poster and see petroglyphs, which the kid absolutely adored. Someday I will spend more time here.

Heavy Breathing

Bryce Canyon is at 8,000 feet, an additional challenge for us mouth breathers. Got a cool campsite in an RV loop… something I highly recommend, since RV types don’t use the public bathrooms that much, and they stay to their RV’s and don’t make much noise. John had bought a metric ton of groceries, so we are set for the next week or so.

Also at 8,000 feet:

• 1.  it gets to the mid-40s at night, so those of us who don’t have sleeping bags rated to 35°F will be a lil chilly.  : >
• 2.       the night sky is awesome; you can see the Milky Way.
• 3.       Running is a little more challenging, but you get used to it (this is all John; and kudos to running at 6:30am at 8,000 feet. I’m sure as hell not doing that.)

The next morning, we made Lily hike the Queen’s Garden trail, an “easy” hike that we back east call strenuous. Cool tunnels tho.

Shade, redux

Conversely, shade isn’t gonna help you if you’re camping in 106°F weather, which is supposed to be the temp today in Zion NP. Our plan was to head there today, but I’m sure as hell not going to camp in that heat, so I canceled our 3-night site reservation (seriously, in a van! Down by the river!!) and booked a hotel in Springdale (just outside Zion) for 2 nights; we managed to swing another campsite here in Bryce for tonight. Because really, everyone wants to stay another night in Bryce, because it’s so literally and figuratively cool.

That was my evening planning; those of you who know how uptight I am about planning know that I hated to change plans… Then again, we’re buying 2 days of A/C + pool. Who can argue with that. Plus I can have a shower to myself (camp bathhouse people, let’s keep it PG here).

As for me now, I’m in the cool of the lodge writing all this down, charging up both phones, a laptop, and a standalone car charger (follow that?) that I drained already while powering up my phone a couple of days ago. Basically I’m taxing the hell out of this 90-yr old lodge. You’d think they’d have outlets at RV sites. Hmph.

John and Lily are on a 2-hour horseback ride through the hoodoos. I hope they find some shade. I may find some ice cream.  ; >

PS

I will say we’ve met only a handful of people crazy enough to drive here from the East Coast. Mostly from Florida, but a handful from PA, CT, NJ, and MA. Only one other plate from Virginia we’ve seen on our travels. No one else is this nuts I guess.

 

Later that day…

John here… his mule wanted to walk on the ABSOLUTE EDGE of that canyon, then take a left. His feet were over the canyon. He wishes to emphasize how freaked out he was about this, and the kid lost it also, but waited until the bottom of the canyon. She dealt with it pretty well, resplendent in her Stetson we bought for her last year in Yellowstone. Yes, I realize how that sounded.

“Cash” – the cowboy who can only get away with a name like that out here – told the worst jokes ever in the history of cowboydom.

Aaaaaaaannnnddd.... scene.